A Visit to Miami's Stiltsville

“I did not understand, taking those pictures, that history must be collected while the subject exists.  If not, what goes unrecorded can fill an ocean.” ~Susanna Daniel, Stiltsville

All too often, people do not take enough time to really delve into what makes their geographic region unique; anywhere a town exists today, there was a historic reason why that town came to be.  It could be something as simple as its strategic location along a major transport/trade route; or it could be something  related to valuable regional natural resources.  And with the growth of any population center, there are always tales of renegades, misfits, and colorful local lore.  Here in Miami, we are blessed with many such places…but my absolute favorite is the fascinating elevated waterlocked village of Stiltsville, in Biscayne Bay, just a mile offshore from Key Biscayne.



A bird's eye view of Stiltsville, in Biscayne Bay.





 This past weekend provided a warm, lazy Sunday that was perfect for taking a cruise down to be among the eclectic array of remains of what was once a booming den of prohibition era nip houses, illegal gambling rings, drug runner drop-offs, and huge parties that long ago catered to the rich and famous, or those of means great enough to gain exclusive membership into the many private clubs that graced the floors of these now-dilapidated structures.



Picturesque "A-Frame House" with Miami skyline.



Stiltsville today consists of 7 structures.  They sit out on the flats of Biscayne Bay in water that can be as shallow as a few feet at low tide.  There are deep finger channels that cut across the flats, making access by boat possible…in fact it is the only option.  One of the inaugural buildings of Stiltsville was constructed exactly one mile offshore in the 1930’s, in order to escape the State of Florida’s mile buffer placed on gambling and drinking during prohibition.  The maritime village grew to a total of 27 strong at its peak in 1960…however a series of hurricanes kept the stilt house population at bay, as the number of dwellings was always in flux.



Balwin, Sessions, and Shaw House.



The National Park Service expanded the boundaries of Biscayne National Park northward to include Stiltsville in 1980.  Previously the State of Florida had decided that the stilt buildings could remain, so long as the owners paid an annually renewing lease to the State for use of the submerged land they were occupying.  The National Park Service was to honor all existing leases, which in the original terms were renewable until 1999, at which time the structures had to be dismantled at the owner’s expense, and no new construction permits were to be issued.  With the destruction deadline looming, and the Park Service unwilling to draft new leases, a desperate effort was made to have Stiltsville listed in the Register of Historic Places, which would grant it amnesty and prevent it from being destroyed.  However the application was rejected twice, on the basis that none of the seven remaining structures was at least 50 years old.  As a last ditch effort, a petition was started to Save Stiltsville, on the grounds that the location was unique, had local and national historic significance, added to the charm and character of Miami culture, and did not pose any significant negative environmental impacts.  After garnering an unprecedented 75,000 signatures, the Park Service amended their management plan to include developing a use for the structures, and allowing the leases to continue until such a time that they could be integrated effectively into Park resources for public use.



Jimmy Ellenburg House.



Anyone visiting Stiltsville today is brought back to a simpler time…the dramatic backdrop of the Miami skyline provides a reminder that civilization is near…yet spending an afternoon on the flats, among the houses and abundant pelagic wildlife takes one far, far away from the hustle bustle.  If you are lucky, you may find a lower house deck unoccupied, and get the chance to pull your boat up and spend some time on the house (the actual structures themselves, accessible via stairs to the upper wraparound deck, are secured and not open to the public at this time).  I have spent quiet afternoons here, snorkeling around the base of the structures’ pilings where sponges, brain and fire corals, and a plethora of tropical fish can be found, as well as lobsters and turtle grasses.  A steady stream of large fishing vessels transit the main channel that passes between 4 of the houses.  It’s a perfect place to have a BBQ and a cold beer on a hot summer day. 

It is my hope that Stiltsville will be indefinitely preserved.  It is places such as this that contribute to the character and history of a rapidly-growing city that has a propensity for tearing down old things and building characterless megaplex condos and shopping centers.  Stiltsville’s precarious perch on the flats makes it terribly vulnerable to the ravages of hurricanes.  Without proper measures and backing, it could be lost forever.  So I was more than happy to devote a Sunday afternoon to revisiting a stunning piece of South Florida heritage…South Beach can keep its trendy sidewalk cafes and nightclubs…I’ll see you on the sandbar!

The two furthest structures are on separate channels.

(NOTE TO READER: PWC are currently banned in Biscayne National Park, which includes Stiltsville.  This renegade PWC’er regularly takes the gamble and goes in anyway; I have been chased out by Fish & Wildlife a few times, but I personally refuse to back down from the biased rule-making No Access crowd.  This diatribe will be saved for a later posting that will be devoted in its entirety to the sore subject of selective PWC bans in Public waterways funded by taxpayer dollars, and those heroic souls devoted to wading through the bureaucratic BS to liberate us all from Boating Oppression.)

The Ride Across Florida

“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end” ~ Ursula K. LeGuin

I woke before dawn on Trip Day…to rain drops hitting the window.  No matter, rain or shine, it was time for the cross-Florida adventure to begin!  Daylight revealed an overcast drizzly January morning…but here in South Florida that means temps in the 60’s, expected to reach the 70’s later in the day.  The journey began with a 1.5 hour drive north to Sandsprit Park in Stuart, FL, just inside St. Lucie inlet on the Atlantic coast.  The preparations were done…it was time to launch and let the fun begin!



Launching in Stuart at Sandsprit Park.



Despite the grey skies, spirits were high, and the scenery was completely new and interesting.  As we headed west, we observed large waterfront mansions, boats of all sizes from kayaks to 100’ yachts, and carefully manicured real estate along the St. Lucie River.  As the salt water made the transition to brackish, the scenery also changed.  The coastal high rises gave way to smaller, more modest homes with more acreage, campgrounds, and expanses of undeveloped waterfront.  The offshore-style fishing boats changed to bass boats and Carolina skiffs.  As we passed beneath highway overpasses heading west, the pace of life took on a more mellow, countryside feel.  We reached the first lock about 15 miles into the journey.  The St. Lucie lock was the largest lock, and also the single largest change in water elevation we would experience on the whole trip…a 15’ rise!  The whole process took a mere 10 minutes, and according to the lock operator, used 1.5 million gallons of water to raise us that 15 feet!!



Entering the lock.





Refueling at Indiantown Marina.

The journey took on a whole different feel on the other side of that lock.  We were now in 100% fresh water, and we were greeted with miles of wake zone free waterway.  The going was easy and smooth, and we often went great distances without encountering any other boats.  The first stop was at the Indiantown marina, approximately 35 miles in, and 10 miles from Lake Okeechobee.  The people were incredibly friendly, the service was excellent, and it turned out to be a great place to take a break and walk around the tranquil, sailboat-filled marina.  After a fuel topoff, we continued west to Port Mayaca Lock, on the eastern shore of Lake Okeechobee.  We were the only boat at the lock, and found an interesting pull cord along the wall near the lock to notify the lock attendant of our presence.  After a small 1’ rise, we were released into the vastness of Lake Okeechobee.

Lock doorbell!



Navigating across Lake Okeechobee with GPS  due to low visibility.



Due to the overcast skies and rain, the visibility on the lake wasn’t great…maybe a few miles.  Soon after setting across the lake, we were unable to see land in any direction.  Thanks to some thorough pre-trip prep, I had the coordinates stored in waypoints in my GPS to guide us across the misty lake safely.  The crossing was 25 miles from Port Mayaca to the lock at Clewiston.  We did run across a bizarre and mysterious giant concrete structure out in the middle of the lake.  I have been unable to find any information on it anywhere since returning…so we will chalk it up to being part of the strange magic of an epic water trip!





Bizarre concrete lake structure.













Dockside accomodations in Clewiston.

After overnighting in Clewiston (and staying in a charming single-wide “fish trailer” and enjoying breakfast at a Salvadorean restaurant in town) we set out the next morning.  We rode lake’s rim canal up to Moore Haven, where we encountered yet another lock, officially exiting the lake.  Now on the Caloosahatchee River, we continued our westward trek under sunny skies and temps in the mid 70’s.  We enjoyed several miles of open smooth waters through agricultural lands, nature preserves, and citrus plantations.  The air was redolent with the scent of oranges ripening on tens of thousands of trees…it was divine.  We cruised past the small towns of La Belle and Alva, with their waterfront communities and RV resorts.  The last two locks were the Ortona Lock just before La Belle, and the Franklin Lock, about 10 miles west of Ft. Myers.  After a brief miscommunication with the lock tender at Franklin (he initially told us that PWC were not permitted in the lock, but then called and got clarification that only standups were prohibited), we passed through the final lock, and into the brackish waters of the Caloosahatchee where it begins to widen towards its eventual reunion with the Gulf of Mexico.



Friendly river patrons.



Another 10 miles brought us to the Ft. Myers City Marina, right in downtown.  Friendly staff helped me refuel, and provided free dockage in order for us to walk into town to have lunch with some friends who live there.  After a refreshing bowl of nachos and a margarita, we were poised to finish the final leg of our journey.  We set off into a lowering sun on the western horizon towards Sanibel Island.  Back in salt water and with the distant Sanibel Causeway Bridge now in sight, the realization that the trip was nearing completion put me in a rather contented but reluctant frame of mind…I was enjoying the trip, and didn’t want it to end…but it is rewarding to accomplish your goals, so it was reflective and satisfying.  A magnificent sunset lit our path the last 10 miles or so.  We arrived at the public boat ramp just after sunset that evening.  My amazingly generous and supportive friends arrived shortly afterwards with my truck and trailer, and we all drove into town to enjoy celebratory cocktails at Doc Ford’s Rum Bar on Sanibel  before setting off on the long drive back to Miami.  Another successful trip under my belt, and all I can think of is…what will the next adventure be?!



Sunset over San Carlos Bay, near Sanibel Island.



Celebration was in order!



A New Adventure Awaits

“It is in the compelling zest of high adventure and of victory, and in creative action, that man finds his supreme joys.” ~ Antoine de Saint-Exupery

There are truly few things more exciting than planning for a trip…but especially a journey you have never attempted before.  I am all abuzz with that very feeling, as I am about to cast the lines for a new adventure on the water – the best kind.  I shall be crossing the state of Florida, from the Atlantic coast to the Gulf coast, via the Okeechobee Waterway on my trusty Seadoo.  Part of this involves a 20+ mile crossing on open waters of Lake Okeechobee itself.  The overall route is about 140 miles.  Much of it will be cruising in both natural rivers and manmade canals, through a nearly forgotten part of Old Florida.

When most people think of Florida, they think of the beaches, islands, and warm tropical ocean.  But Florida’s interior, known as the Heartland, is full of hidden treasures…small towns far from the hustle-bustle and crowds of the coasts, loads of authentic character, and a much slower, more relaxed pace of life. 

The crossing will involve passing through a total of 5 locks.  Lake Okeechobee’s water level is generally higher than sea level…and it is carefully managed by the various Water Management Districts and Water Authorities.  In order to maintain correct level in the lake, the waterways connecting it to the ocean and the gulf must also be managed, and this is done with dams.  This will be my very first experience boating through locks.  I am sure those of you that boat on rivers are accustomed to locks…but it will be an exciting new adventure for me!

The journey will start in the Stuart, FL area on the Atlantic coast, and will conclude in the Fort Myers area on the Gulf coast.  I’ll be overnighting in a lakeside town, making it a two day trip.  Lake Okeechobee is vast…for those of you unfamiliar with it, it is the seventh largest (by surface area) freshwater lake in the United States, exceeded only by the Great Lakes and Iliamna Lake in Alaska…it covers a whopping 662 square miles but averages only about 9 feet deep.

As with any journey, when you are going far from home, you have to be prepared.  I always try to take as many precautions as I can before heading out on a long ride.  I also like to have contingencies in place wherever possible.  At a minimum, I ALWAYS carry towing insurance.  I prefer BoatUS, and have had coverage with them for many years.  I have only ever needed to call on them once, but that one time and the peace of mind that having coverage gives you, is worth every penny.  I also will be packing spares of things that could reasonably be changed on the fly: spark plugs, fuses, a spare ignition coil.  I carry a basic first aid kit, flashlight, a drybag containing important phone numbers, an anchor, a handheld VHF radio, a GPS, spare batteries…just to name a few.  I also carry a stainless steel fillet knife…not for cleaning fish though!  It is an invaluable tool to have if you get something caught up inside your intake grate.  I have cut out many plastic bags and other debris that became wrapped around the driveshaft using that knife…and subsequently avoided needing to get towed to a ramp to deal with the problem out-of-water.  On a trip like this, that will not even be an option.  Also a mask and snorkel, not only for checking out the sub aquatic terrain, but for enabling you to work beneath the vessel while it is in the water if necessary.

 

It is also prudent to research the locations of marinas and fuel docks ahead of time, and keep their phone numbers handy.  Because of the many problems we have in South Florida with PWC operators (see last week’s diatribe), there are some marinas that refuse to serve them.  So as a precaution, I like to phone ahead to make sure that I won’t show up at an unwelcome dock, running on fumes, and unable to fill up…it is the fuel dock operator’s discretion whom they serve.

But what you need most of all, is a good sense of adventure.  Going into the unknown can be unnerving for some…but for me, it is invigorating.  This particular journey has been done by many.  Albeit mostly on regular boats and not a PWC…but what matters is that it is new to me.  And the reward and sense of accomplishment achieved at the end of an epic ride cannot have a price tag attached.  And it is these unique journeys that keep life on the water alive and endlessly inspiring…and now, back to trip planning!

Don't be a Meatball!

“What’s a No Wake Zone?” ~Typical PWC operator in my area

Sigh.

One of my biggest pet peeves about the recreational boating industry…the lack of educational requirements for a person to just buy a boat, launch it, and take off onto the big blue, blissfully unaware of how to read channel markers, how to interpret navigation charts, what a wake is…much less what constitutes Minimum Wake or Idle Speed.  It is very unfortunate not only for the novice boater that gets pulled over and fined for violating one of the many boating laws on the books, but also for the knowledgeable, savvy boater that is forever cursing out the newbies throwing huge wakes where there are divers down or chartered fishing vessels trying to make a living and a good experience for their paying customers.

This debacle seems to apply exponentially to personal watercraft.  I can only assume it is mostly because they are water toys, built for speed and maneuverability.  The average person riding one does not own any other kind of boat, and therefore has nothing to gauge their (bad) behavior against. Other than the flats fisherman angrily pumping his fist in the air as you blow by his bonefish charter at 65 mph.  Or the family boat peacefully anchored away from the channel, with kids in the water, screaming expletives at you as you think it would be fun to “show off” by speeding by their floating camp and making a rooster tail spin-out mere feet away from where they are now frantically scrambling to secure loose items that will probably spill over when your wake finally reaches their bow.  But most of it is because PWC operators are not required to hold any kind of license or specialized boater training prior to putting one in the water.  And THAT is a huge problem!  As a responsible PWC operator, it grates my nerves to see this constant terrible behavior on the water by jet skiers…my buddy Slack refers to this crowd as The Meatballs.  And they are (in my opinion) responsible for the biased, unequitable set of restrictions placed specifically on PWC in several of our National Parks and other public waterways.   

The good news is, this is starting to change.  Many states have new regulations requiring boat operators born after a certain date to obtain boating certification and/or licensing.  This requirement varies by State…the following is an excellent resource to see what your state requires: http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/states/ed_requirements_map.asp

This is a step in the right direction…however it does little to combat the current problem: tens of thousands of existing boat operators that have no training whatsoever are grandfathered in to the current laws of non-required education, and are at large on an ocean or lake near you! 

It is wintertime in most parts of the US right now, and maybe boating and running your PWC is not exactly on the forefront of your mind, but this would be an excellent opportunity to take advantage of the down time to get yourself signed up for a boater safety course.  They are usually free, and many of them can be done online.  BoatUS offers one http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/default.asp as does Power Squadrons http://www.usps.org/ and there are others.  So come spring, all you have to think about is dewinterizing and getting back out on the water…hopefully with a fresh perspective on responsible boating, and the impacts your boating behaviors have on others.

I cannot advocate enough how important boater safety is…there are many things you will learn that you would have never even thought to consider as a casual weekend warrior.  And you will also be better prepared in the event of an emergency.  Mother Nature can turn on a dime, and sometimes you will only have your knowledge to rely on.  Plus you might notice other boaters cruising through the No Wake zones waving at you, instead of cursing you out.  So PLEASE take a class, and encourage other PWC owners you know to do the same.  And remember…don’t be a Meatball!

It's all about THE RIDE...

When asked, “Don’t you ever get tired of jet skiing so much??” I always answer, without hesitation, “Not at all!  I can’t get enough of it!”  My love affair with the sea began when I was very small.  Before I was even walking, I was at the beach, via annual family vacation to the Jersey Shore.  I became enamored with the ocean from that point onward.  There was something indescribably appealing about the water.  Little did I know back then that the water would become more than a nice place to spend a week each summer…it was to become a lifestyle.

I bought my first watercraft, a yellow 1998 Kawasaki 1100 ZXI, used, in 2001.  I had never owned one before…I had only ever rented a Yamaha Waverunner once at the Jersey Shore when I was 16.  I remembered how fun it was, but back then I was in no position personally or financially to own one.  But for the first time in my life, I was, and I took the plunge and bought the Kawasaki, which I affectionately named Barracuda.

I knew less than nothing about it, or boating in general, as my family had never owned a boat.  But I was intrigued and eager to learn.  I had moved to Miami in 2000, and after getting my SCUBA open water certification, I set my sights on getting a jet ski.  Going to the beach was nice…but I wanted to get out there.  The one thing I knew for sure though…I didn’t want to be That Person, out there on their ski, having no clue where the channels were, or where the no wake zones were.  I had heard the grumblings from fishermen and other boaters about the “idiots on jet skis”.  I decided right then and there, I would not be one of those.

From the very first day at the public boat ramp on Watson Island, in Biscayne Bay between downtown Miami and Miami Beach, I took advantage of the plentiful resources around me to get things off to the right start…other boaters.  Even though I didn’t know any of them, I politely approached a small group of people launching their waterski boat and explained that today was my very first day on the water, and if they would mind if I tagged along for a while to get to know “the lay of the sea”.  They were not only more than happy to teach me what they could, but they even offered to let me try water skiing!  It was a great day, and it was the beginning of a long and extraordinarily satisfying way of life that I have built my life around.

Fast forward to late 2012.  I now live on the waterfront, and I have been on the water nearly every weekend year round for the past 12 years…and I have never regretted a single ride.  I am on my third ski now, a 2008 Seadoo RXP-X, and we have just surpassed 500 hours on the gauge.  My world has been expanded to places I could have never dreamed of, being land-based.  I have seen and learned much during thousands of hours on the water…and there is much more to see and learn.  The Wake Zone is a place to learn not so much about nuts and bolts (though inevitably there will be some of that!), but about a lifestyle on the water.  It’s about touring and exploring, education and etiquette with fellow boaters, maintenance and tips on keeping your ride floating and not landlocked, innovation and cool new stuff out there for riders, and a place to share experiences.  All are welcome, from novice to expert.  But most importantly, it is all about The Ride!