Riding Away Again in Margaritaville...

“Why do I love Key West so much?  If you had ever been there, this question would not need to be asked.” ~Me



My favorite watering hole in Key West, the Rum Bar at the
Speakeasy Inn. This architectural style is dominant
throughout the island.



Key West is one of my absolute favorite places.  It’s a sub-tropical New Orleans, a sanctuary from the rat race of Miami, a place to get away, or a place to hideaway.  Warm turquoise waters, rustic small town charm, an artistic uniqueness second to none, a population of people who love where they live, and a lively bar and restaurant scene…what’s not to love?  And lucky me, it is only a 3.5 hour drive from Miami, over dozens of scenic bridges through dozens more island towns.  It is decadent to the eyes, and energizing to the soul.

Key West is a town that has its roots back to salvaging, fishing, and wrecking in the early 1800’s.  Today, Cayo Hueso, or Key West, is home to a Navy base, artists, entrepreneurs, fishermen, and a thriving tourism industry.  People come from all over the world to partake in fishing, diving, shopping, festivals, watersports, lounging around tropical resorts and beachfronts, and partying on world famous Duval Street, with its funky art galleries, local restaurants, and bars galore.  With over 360 liquor licenses registered in Key West, there is no shortage of places to wet your palate!



Turquoise waters off Key West



Riding in Key West is its own kind of magic.  I’ve been doing it for many years, but each time I return, I find something new and interesting.  The water is warm…in the summertime it can be 84 degrees!  In many places, it is crystal clear and abundant with reef fish and sea turtles.  This past weekend was no exception!  A warmer than average February has yielded a surprising number of riding days without the need for a wetsuit.  Having friends in Old Town that generously accommodate my constant thirst for Key West is quite advantageous, as lodging in the peak of tourist season can be quite expensive. 



Riviera Canal



There are a few places around town to launch.  I used to pay the $20 fee to launch at Garrison Bight…until I accidentally found out about a nice quiet, unadvertised and free public ramp off  Riviera Canal, near the airport.  The cruise down the longish canal provides you with a nice view into the backyards of the few lucky residents on the island with private deepwater dockage (most everywhere else there are only commercial marinas).

Once you emerge from the canal into Cow Key Channel, you are rewarded with a bustling hub of water activity…boat and kayak rentals, standup paddleboarders on a tour, some people fishing from the bridge, other boats pulling away from restaurant docks.  And all in the most amazingly clear, emerald colored water.  There are a few outfits that do jet ski tours around the island.  They can be found buzzing by in groups of 10 or more. 

After taking a leisurely cruise around the south perimeter of the island and riding past Fort Zachary Taylor State Park, the main boating channel into Key West Harbor comes into view.  Rounding the corner into deeper water, massive cruise ships line the seawall at the Truman Waterfront.  If you have never had the chance to ride alongside a cruise ship from your ski, then you have never felt like a tiny speck of a vessel.  Key West Harbor is a busy marine traffic area.  Boats of all shapes and sizes and with many purposes constantly traverse through it…sailing charters, commercial shrimp boats, noisy party boats, jet ski tours, private vessels heading out to fish or dive.  There is also a sizeable anchorage full of sailboats to navigate through, many housing Key West’s notorious population of liveaboards. 



A tranquil hiding space in the mangroves



It is beyond the mooring field and Sunset Key that one can see a bounty of tiny uninhabited islets.  I am drawn to these like a cat to a can opener.  It is here that you can hide, leave the sounds and crowds on shore behind, and simply relax to the sounds of birds, distant boat engines, and snappers leaping from the water’s surface.  It is hard to imagine that something so remote and tranquil can be found so close to civilization, but it can.  It is one of the thousands of reason I love the Keys.

A 5 mile trek further east brings you to a great little attraction, that can only be reached by boat…the submarine pits on Big Coppitt Key.  They are a series of 40 – 50’ deep trenches that are dug out of the bedrock in a remote, undeveloped area surrounded by woods.  At the end of one of the trenches is a rope swing, obviously hung by locals from a sturdy old casuarina tree.



Friendly dock space at Hurricane Hole



No afternoon would be complete without a dockside bar stop.  I prefer to sneak into Hurricane Hole, a scenic and protected cove right at the base of the Stock Island bridge.  Come as you are, all are welcome.  They have a great selection of appetizers and bar grub, to be washed down with a refreshing brew, all at a reasonable price.  And if you stick around long enough, the karaoke machine comes out!  Proceed at your own risk!



Sea and sky blend seamlessly near dusk



Ah yes, and finally, the dreamy Key West sunset.  Most visitors to Key West try to catch the fiery orb descending toward the horizon from the street performer mecca of Mallory Square, while being entertained by people swallowing swords and walking on glass, and cats jumping through hoops of fire.  And while that is certainly a great place to enjoy it from, I am rather partial to a quiet sunset at sea.  Leaving Hurricane Hole, I meander back out to the Atlantic, maybe half a mile offshore, and just drift and watch another changing of the guard between the day and the twilight.  The prize at the end of the journey.

But now…the sun is down, and it is time to head in.  There are 360 liquor licenses needing attention in town, and I do not intend to let them down!  Have nary a doubt in your mind, Cayo Hueso, I will be back. 



Key West sunset from a Seadoo point of view